Tom Ford: Shiny Smoky Eyes
“It’s become a bit of a Tom Ford signature,” hairstylist Orlando Pita said of the low, cheek chignons he meticulously crafted backstage for the designer’s fall 2019 show. “You see it and you know it’s his show.” Regardless of natural texture, all the models’ hair was straightened and slicked back into pretty knots, the hair swooping just slightly slower than the hairline.
Another Tom Ford staple, the smoky eye, made an appearance, with makeup artist Diane Kendal layering cream shadows over mauve, gray, and plum powder shadows (from the Tom Ford Eye Color Quads in Nude Dip and Orchid Haze ) over dark brown pencil (the Tom Ford Eye Kohl in Espresso ), and topping it all off with an eye gloss before the models’ stepped out. "Adding all the layers actually gives the shadow more dimension and doesn't make it look too heavy," said Kendal. "The light hits it [on the runway] and gives life to it." Which you can see beautifully here.
Rodarte: Matchy-Matchy Glitter
“We were all feeling a bit seventies,” said makeup artist James Kaliardos, who turned to Bob Fosse musicals for inspiration when dreaming up the monochromatic glitter-lids-and-lips combo for Rodarte's homecoming show in Los Angeles . (And yes, we know it's not technically part of New York Fashion Week since it wasn't in New York, but we'll let it slide since the show basically marked the start of the fall 2019 show season.) To create the look, Kaliardos used fuchsia, pink, or red lipstick as a base, swiping it onto the eyelids and lips, followed by color-matched glitter that he pressed on top. The result? Light-catching splashes of color that sent hearts pumping both backstage, on the runway, and all over Instagram.
Rodarte: Dream Curls
Glitter was only half of the equation at Rodarte's fall show. The amazing floral headpieces, which sat atop bouncy curls — both natural and created by a curling iron, depending on the models' own texture — were equal parts glamazon and
Kate Spade: Rosewood Shimmer
"Rosewood," was the word makeup artist Romy Soleimani kept using to describe the types of colors she used backstage at Kate Spade. Looking back at the makeup of '70s style icons like Biba and Twiggy, Soleimani dipped into the burgundy powders in the Maybelline New York Burgundy Bar palette , concentrating the color on the inner half of the eyes; then using rose gold shadows on the outer half of the eyes and along the cheekbones. "Doing this really warms and opens up the face and looks gorgeous in the profile," Soleimani said. "It just gives this glowy, wide-eyed, almost butterfly-like effect." A rust-colored lip and a healthy coating of Maybelline Great Lash on top and bottom lashes completed the look.
Collina Strada: Pastel Splatter
If you gave Jackson Pollock a model and a tray of pastel makeup paints, the look at Collina Strada is what you'd get. Makeup artist Yuka Ishizuka, who created the look, called it a "tie-dye" effect. She mixed vividly-colored creams with white to create the acid-bright shades she brushed all around the eyes, brows, and cheekbones.
Brock Collection: Romantic Smoke
"The makeup at Brock is usually quite romantic and dreamy, but the direction this time was to make the girls look a little edgier," said makeup artist Gucci Westman of her and hairstylist Peter Gray's brief for the show. Westman was excited to be able to break out some of the products from her own makeup line, Westman Atelier. She applied the Lit Up Highlighter Stick underneath the Vital Skin Foundation Stick — "it makes the skin look much more ethereal," she said — followed by either her cream blush or bronzer, depending on the models' skin tone.
While Westman encircled the eyes in a cloud of charcoal gray (a blend of different shadows from Chanel), she wanted the real focus to be the jet-black line along the top and bottom lashes. "It's a really thick, sharp line with no flick, it's just meant to frame the eye," she said. To get that richness, Westman applied the liquid liner ( also from Chanel ) before and after she brushed on the shadow, using short, quick strokes. "It's super helpful, trying to do it one long stroke is really tricky."
Nicole Miller: Rainbow Braids
There wasn't one singular hairstyle for Nicole Miller's fall 2019 runway show. The models basically came down the runway sporting their natural texture or preferred style, whether that was messy waves, springy curls, or a shaved head. Our favorite hairstyle of the show, however, belonged to rapper JZL the Empress, who wore her rainbow-colored braids in pigtails and decorated with beads. "Words can’t express the appreciation I have for Nicole Miller for my runway debut!" she wrote in an Instagram post after the show. "The experience was amazing and her collection was energetically pleasing!! I loved the professional look she chose for me to mix with my playful vibes and colorz! ????✨????"
By Stephanie Saltzman, Elizabeth Denton, and Lauren Swanson